Summer Sparklers

If You Swallow the party line emanating from Reims and other capitals of the bubbly, you'll be missing out on one of summer's urbane pleasures---the sparkling wine cooler. The Champenois would have you believe it's sacrilegious to mix or modify their precious effervescent in any way! The fact is, sparkling long drinks, cocktails and punches are particular favorites in regions that produce these exhilarating beverages. Privately, not even the image-conscious champagne growers are such absolute sticklers. There is, for example, the neat trick of swirling a tulip glass with 1/4 oz. fragrant raspberry brandy, then adding chilled champagne and a plump, ripe berry. Smashing!

Burgundians are much easier about these things. A drink mating two local specialties, white vin mousseux and black-currant liqueur, has become widely popular as the Kir Royale. French restaurateur Paul Bocuse borrows from both of the foregoing, combining framboise (raspberry brandy), crème de cassis and champagne for his Bocuse Original.

A tilt toward (continued on page 116) Summer Sparklers (continued from page 113) sparkling coolers is by no means restricted to the French bon bouche. Several long drinks featuring Asti spumante were among the winners in a recent bartenders' contest, held in Milan. German Herren dote on Bowlen, combinations of summer fruits and Sekt, the Deutsche effervescent. The young studs favor a Schuss of Sekt in their beer after a romp on the soccer field---or in the hay!

Happily for us, American champagnes and sparkling wines make beguiling summer coolers. They're fruity and carefully made---and the price is right. Even the low-end California Champagnes are clean and remarkably free of off flavors. In this historic year, West Coast vintners are urging patriots to salute the Bicentennial with a California '76, an updated version of the classic French '75. The Mimosa, combining the native orange juice and the native bubbly, is a perennial choice at poolside, dockside and other summer scenes. An interesting variant substitutes grapefruit for the orange.

In the opinion of Charles Fournier, dean of New York vintners, "pineapple is the juice that respects the flavor of the champagne most." The man is, as they say, entitled---since he's been making champagne for well over half a century. M. Fournier's special sparkling punch, heretofore reserved for wine-industry get-togethers, is given below---along with a clutch of other ebullient summer sips.

[recipe_title]Charles Fournier's Champagne Punch[/recipe_title]

(Serves 25)

[drinkRecipe]1 bottle Chablis Nature[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 cups pineapple juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 bottles Charles Fournier Blancs de Blanc Champagne[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon, orange, strawberries[/drinkRecipe]

"All ingredients must be thoroughly refrigerated before use," says le grand Charles; "otherwise, the ice will melt too fast, diluting the punch."

Pour Chablis Nature, pineapple juice and brandy over large block of "very cold ice." Stir. Add champagne very slowly to conserve bubbles. Stir once. Decorate with a few orange and lemon slices and halved strawberries.

Replenish as necessary, but in proportions given in recipe: 1 bottle champagne to 1/2 bottle wine, 1-1/2 cups pineapple juice and a jigger of brandy. Chilled!

[recipe_title]California '76[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. California brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. grapefruit juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon superfine sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]California champagne, chilled Orange slice[/drinkRecipe]

Shake first four ingredients briskly, with ice. Strain into 8-oz. highball glass with 1 ice cube. Fill with champagne. Garnish with orange slice. Stir once.

Note: You'll get 6 tall drinks from each bottle of champagne.

[recipe_title]Melody[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]One of the winners in the Italian barmen's contest. As the name suggests, it's a harmonious blend.[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. triple sec[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Asti spumante, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Orange or lemon slice[/drinkRecipe]

Shake first three ingredients with ice. Strain into tulip champagne glass. Add a good splash of Asti spumante---an ounce or two. Stir once. Garnish with fruit slice.

[recipe_title]Kir Royale[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]Before it became a fashionable "new drink," this was known as a Cardinal Cocktail.[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Crème de cassis[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]White sparkling burgundy, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Place 1 to 2 teaspoons crème de cassis in chilled tulip champagne glass; swirl to coat sides of glass. Add about 4 ozs. sparkling wine.

[recipe_title]The Bicycle[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]La Bicyclette was a favorite at the Riviera Bar of the late, lamented S.S. France. And this is how Raymond, the ship's First Bartender, prepared it.[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. dry vermouth[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 teaspoons crème de cassis[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Champagne or sparkling wine, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Orange slice, if desired[/drinkRecipe]

Pour vermouth and liqueur over ice in highball glass; stir. Fill with champagne or sparkling wine. Garnish with orange slice, if you like.

[recipe_title]Bocuse Original[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]A similar drink is offered at Chicago's Le Perroquet restaurant as Bollinger à la Framboise---made with Bollinger Extra Dry Champagne.[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon crème de cassis[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon framboise[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. champagne, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Raspberry or strawberry, if desired

Place crème de cassis and framboise in chilled tulip champagne glass; swirl to coat sides of glass. Add champagne and garnish with ripe raspberry or strawberry, if desired.

Another version: 1 teaspoon each cherry cordial and kirschwasser in chilled wineglass. Add 3 ozs. chilled sparkling wine. Garnish with pitted cherry.

[recipe_title]Kullerpfirsich[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]This recipe comes from Peter Sichel, producer of Sparkling Blue Nun. He says that in Germany, the drink is properly served in a special, chimney-style glass. Any large glass, such as a balloon burgundy, will do nicely. Just be sure it has at least a 12-oz. capacity---16-oz. is preferable. Kullerpfirsich, incidentally, means tumbling peach.[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 ripe peach for each glass[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Sparkling Blue Nun or other sparkling wine, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Wash and dry peaches. Pierce flesh all over with tines of fork and place in chilled large wineglass. Pour in sparkling wine to cover fruit. The peach puts on a show, spinning around in the glass, while adding a subtle fragrance to the wine. Replenish glass with cold bubbly when it runs down. At the end, you get to eat the luscious, winy peach.

[recipe_title]California Rose Bowl[/recipe_title]

(Serves 20 to 25)

[drinkRecipe]1 lb. ripe freestone peaches, peeled and sliced[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 cup vanilla sugar or superfine sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 bottle California chenin blanc[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 bottles California pink champagne or crackling rosé[/drinkRecipe]

Sprinkle peaches with sugar, then pour chenin blanc or other fragrant California white wine over them; stir. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Transfer to chilled punch bowl. Add champagne or crackling rosé, pouring down side of bowl to conserve bubbles; stir once. Dip a slice of fruit into each portion. A float of sliced ripe strawberries is nice but not mandatory.

[recipe_title]Keuka Cooler[/recipe_title]

(Serves 8 to 10)

[drinkRecipe]This is a favorite around Keuka Lake, home of the fine New York State champagnes. Quick and good.[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 can (6 ozs.) frozen lemonade concentrate[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 bottle Taylor or Great Western champagne[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Cucumber slices, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Mint sprigs[/drinkRecipe]

Reconstitute lemonade as directed on can and chill. To serve, pour equal parts lemonade and champagne into chilled goblets. Garnish each drink with cucumber slice and mint sprig.

[recipe_title]Maharaja's Burra Peg[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]Cube sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Angostura or orange bitters[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. cognac[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Champagne or sparkling wine, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Peel of 1/2 lime, in spiral[/drinkRecipe]

Frosted goblet (directions below)

Place sugar cube in large frosted goblet; add 2 or 3 dashes bitters. (The original recipe calls for Angostura, but our preference is for orange bitters. Add cognac and muddle to dissolve sugar. Add I ice cube and fill with champagne or sparkling wine. Decorate glass with lime spiral.

Frosted goblet: Rub rim of goblet with cut lime. Invert and swirl in granulated (concluded on page 192) Summer Sparklers (continued from page 116) sugar. Tap lightly to remove excess sugar.

[recipe_title]Coupe Maxim[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 brandied cherries[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Small cube sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Champagne or sparkling wine, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Place cherries with a bit of their syrup and sugar cube in a chilled champagne coupe or burgundy glass. Muddle to crush cherries and break up sugar. Add champagne or sparkling wine to taste.

[recipe_title]Adam And Eve[/recipe_title]

(Serves 6)

[drinkRecipe]1/2 apple---McIntosh or golden Delicious---thinly sliced[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 thin slices lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 tablespoon sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. dry white wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. calvados or applejack[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 bottle sparkling wine or champagne, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Combine first five ingredients and marinate in refrigerator about an hour. Divide fruit and syrup among 6 chilled tulip champagne glasses. Fill glasses with sparkling wine or champagne.

[recipe_title]Bubbly Mandarin[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. Mandarine Napoleon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Sparkling wine or champagne, chilled Mandarin-orange segment[/drinkRecipe]

Pack stem of hollow-stemmed champagne glass with crushed ice. Pour Mandarine Napoleon, or other liqueur, over ice. Add sparkling wine or champagne. Garnish glass with mandarin-orange segment on a pick.

[recipe_title]Buck's Fizz[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]Originated in the Buck's Club, London, shortly after World War One. If you omit the grenadine, it's a Mimosa.[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. orange juice, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon grenadine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. champagne, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Pour orange juice and grenadine into chilled tulip champagne glass; stir. Add champagne; stir once.

[recipe_title]California Nectar[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]The guava adds an intriguing, musky note to the champagne. Try it on your friends, blind---see if they can guess what it is![/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. California champagne, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. guava nectar, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lime slice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Pour champagne into chilled wineglass. Add nectar. Garnish with lime slice. Stir once.[/drinkRecipe]

Summer sparklers are cool and quenching. Once you've experienced their diverse delights, you may decide that gin and tonic isn't the only way to go at this time of year.