Jambalaya!

Two things irresistibly draw bachelor chefs to jambalaya. First, its opulence: Rice, chicken, ham, seafoods, seasonings, vegetables, spices and herbs are lavishly fused in a one-dish meal representing generations of New Orleans culinary genius. Second, it's an imaginative dish for which there are countless recipes but few rules. You can confidently substitute game for chicken, lobster for shrimps or scallions for onions. Naturally, the one glorious element you can't change is rice, though some Creolized chefs (concluded on page 183)Jambalaya!(continued from page 112) have been known to use wild rice instead of white. In a superb jambalaya, the finished rice is less buttery than a risotto milanese but more moist than Oriental fried rice; it must never be sopping wet or mushy.

It's a musical word--jambalaya. Guesses as to its origin range from the Congoese chimbolo (bread; i.e., the staff of life) to the Spanish jamón and the French jambon, both meaning ham. Actually, it's the American spelling of the modern Provencal French jambalaia, meaning a ragout of rice with chicken. More important than its etymology is the fact that its flavor profile is unmistakably French--a subtle savory balance in which no single ingredient overpowers another.

[recipe_title]Jambalaya[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]1 lb. medium-size shrimps[/recipe]

[recipe]3 whole boneless and skinless breasts of chicken[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. cooked ham, Virginia or country style[/recipe]

[recipe]2 dozen large shucked oysters[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup onions, finely minced[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 cup green pepper, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon very finely minced garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]1 bay leaf, very finely minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 cups long-grain rice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon saffron[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon ground cloves[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon ground allspice[/recipe]

[recipe]4 large peeled, seeded fresh tomatoes, 1/2-in. dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon very finely minced parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon Tabasco[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Place shrimps in pot with 1 quart cold water and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Slowly bring to boiling point. Drain shrimps, reserving liquid in which they were cooked. Peel and devein shrimps; set aside. Return shells to cooking liquid and simmer 10 minutes. Strain stock. There should be 3-1/2 cups; add water, if necessary, to make that amount of liquid. Cut chicken into 1-in. dice. Cut ham into 1/2-in. dice. Drain oysters, discarding juice; set aside. Heat oil and 2 tablespoons butter over very low heat in large Dutch oven or heavy stewpot. Add chicken and ham. Sauté, stirring frequently, until chicken loses raw color. Add onions, green pepper, garlic, bay leaf and thyme. Sauté a few minutes, until onion loses raw taste and color. Add shrimp stock, rice, saffron, cloves, allspice, tomatoes, parsley, Tabasco, lemon juice and 1 teaspoon salt. Mix well. Bring to boil over moderate heat; reduce heat as much as possible; cover pot and simmer 20 minutes without stirring. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in another pan and sauté oysters until edges begin to curl. Add shrimps and oysters to jambalaya, tossing lightly. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cook until shrimps and oysters are heated through. If rice seems too moist, continue to cook for a few minutes uncovered.

Remember the lyrics about jambalaya and a crawfish pie and a filé gumbo? Well, after sampling the preceding recipe, you may just wish to forget the other two.

"More important than its etymology is the fact that jambalaya's flavor profile is unmistakably French."