Sazerac!

A dedicated Guzzler recently confided that in the event that he was reincarnated, he would rather return as a New Orleans bartender than as Warren Beatty or the shah of Iran. This should be accepted as an honest expression of the man's sentiments, since he was then working on his ninth vodka stinger--a concoction he detests but wistfully believes does not linger on his breath.

A steadfast allegiance to New Orleans and its drinking tradition is shared by quite a (continued on page 184)Sazerac!(continued from page 113) few people, including many who've never been within 1000 miles of Bourbon Street and Mardi Gras. New Orleans is the spiritual motherland of the resolute reveler, and extreme cases have been known to tilt the first glass of the day toward New Orleans, just as a Moslem faces Mecca to pray. The classic libations, spawned or popularized in the Crescent City, read like an honor roll of drinkdom: sazerac, Ramos gin fizz, café brÛlot, absinthe suissesse, absinthe frappé, milk punch, orange brÛlot and quite a few others. San Francisco may drink more, and New York more expensively, but no place provides the flair, range and unself-conscious joie de boire dispensed at your average, jumping New Orleans pub. Of course, you can get yourself one of the standard cocktails anywhere.

"But," says Ella Brennan of the venerable Brennan restaurant family, "old-line New Orleans drinks sazeracs, sazeracs, sazeracs." As it happens, Miss Ella--Queen of Delta Cuisine--is no longer associated with the Brennan's on Royal Street. She is now comfortably ensconced in the Commander's Palace Restaurant, a Victorian edifice in the Garden District of old New Orleans. To no one's surprise, the new place continues some of the old favorites. Commander's version of breakfast at Brennan's is a jazz brunch featuring old-time jazz greats, and the drink card lists an array of traditional eye openers including, you may be sure, the sazerac.

There's some kind of brouhaha swirling around this quintessential New Orleans tonic. The Fairmont Hotel claims exclusive rights to the "formula and use of the name sazerac." Despite this proscription, the drink is served regularly at a number of groggeries around town. Originally, the sazerac was a cognac-based mixture, taking its name from Sazerac-d-Forge et Fils, of Limoges, the shipper. Along the way, straight rye whiskey replaced the brandy and a dash of absinthe was tossed in for chic. Order a sazerac in New Orleans today and it will be made with bourbon, unless you specify otherwise, and Pernod or Herbsaint in place of absinthe, banished in 1915.

Local barmen vary the formula a soupçon, each putting his personal stamp on the drink. But you'll always get a good sazerac ... a good gin fizz ... a good milk punch ... a good absinthe frappé ... a good brÛlot ... or what's your pleasure. And that's what you'd expect from New Orleans, spiritual motherland of the serious drinker.

Following are two versions of the sazerac--the more-or-less original recipe, as presented at the Fairmont Hotel's Sazerac Bar, and the streamlined Commander's Palace concoction. Note that neither calls for ice in the serving glass.

[recipe_title]Fairmont Sazerag[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. bourbon or straight rye[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 lump sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 dashes Peychaud's bitters[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 dash Angostura bitters[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 dashes Herbsaint (absinthe substitute) Strip lemon peel[/drinkRecipe]

Fill small old fashioned glass with ice; set aside. Place sugar in mixing glass. Saturate with bitters and a few drops of water. Muddle to dissolve sugar. Add ice and whiskey; stir well. Empty first glass of ice. Dash in some Herbsaint and roll around to coat inside, then discard. Enough will cling to subtly flavor drink. Strain whiskey mixture into prepared glass. Twist lemon peel over glass to release oils, then discard.

[recipe_title]Commander's Palace Sazerag[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-3/4 ozs. bourbon or straight rye[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 dashes simple syrup[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 dash Angostura bitters[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 dashes Peychaud's bitters[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 dashes Pernod[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Strip lemon peel[/drinkRecipe]

Stir first four ingredients with ice. Dash Pernod into chilled old fashioned glass and roll around to coat inside; then discard. Strain drink into prepared glass. Add twist lemon peel.

[recipe_title]Ramos Gin Fizz[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. dry gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon superfine sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3-4 drops orange flower water[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. lime juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]White of 1 small egg[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. heavy cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 drops vanilla extract (optional)[/drinkRecipe]

Shake violently with cracked ice until drink develops a "ropy" body and builds a good head of froth. This takes persistent rocking. Strain into chilled highball glass.

Note: If you mix in blender, prechill container and add 1/3 cup finely crushed ice to mixture.

[recipe_title]Absinthe Suissesse[/recipe_title]

Still referred to as an Absinthe Suissesse on many New Orleans drink cards, although absinthe hasn't been around since World War One.

[drinkRecipe]1-1/4 ozs. Pernod, Herbsaint or another absinthe substitute[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]White of 1 small egg[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. heavy cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. orgeat syrup[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/3 cup finely crushed ice[/drinkRecipe]

Blend in prechilled blender 10--15 seconds. Serve in chilled old fashioned glass or large tulip champagne glass.

[recipe_title]Absinthe Frappe[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Pernod, Herbsaint or another absinthe substitute[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. anisette[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Club soda to taste, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Pack small highball glass with finely crushed ice. Add Pernod and anisette, then slowly drip in soda while agitating briskly with long-handled spoon. Serve when outside of glass is frosted. If you like, add Pernod float.

[recipe_title]Ella Brennan's Milk Punch[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. bourbon or brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. milk or light cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon superfine sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Dash vanilla extract[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Nutmeg[/drinkRecipe]

Shake everything except nutmeg long and thoroughly, with cracked ice, until frothy. Strain into large old fashioned glass. Grate a bit of nutmeg over.

[recipe_title]Cafe Brulot[/recipe_title]

A great New Orleans favorite that was actually devised at the Café Martin in New York City. However, Antoine's of New Orleans glamorized this drink with a special service set and made it popular.

[drinkRecipe]8 ozs. cognac, warmed[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 cloves[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 whole allspice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 stick cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon-peel strips from 1/2 lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Orange-peel strips from 1/4 orange[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 teaspoons sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 quart hot, strong coffee[/drinkRecipe]

Place all ingredients except coffee in chafing dish or warmed heatproof bowl. Ignite cognac. Stir slowly as cognac flames. After a minute, slowly pour in coffee, continuing to stir. About 8 servings in slender porcelain brÛlot cups or demitasses.

[recipe_title]Orange Brulot[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. cognac, dark rum or Metaxa 7-Star[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 thin-skinned orange, medium size 1/2 lump sugar[/drinkRecipe]

Scrub orange and soak in warm water about 10 minutes. With point of sharp paring knife, cut around orange at equator, being careful not to pierce white membrane under peel. Using handle of teaspoon, carefully loosen peel around orange, turning it back slightly as you go. After peel has been turned, work with thumb and forefinger to pull it back, inside out, until cup is formed. Do not detach from fruit. Repeat with other half. You now have 2 cups, attached to either end of the orange; one serves as base or pedestal, the other as container. Pour whichever spirits you're using into this container. Place sugar in warmed teaspoon. Saturate with liquor and ignite. Gently float onto surface of spirits in orange cup, setting the whole thing afire. Extinguish after a minute. The heat draws oil from orange skin, making fragrant sip.

[recipe_title]Place D'Armes[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. whiskey[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice 1/2 orange[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice 1/2 lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice 1/2 lime[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. grenadine[/drinkRecipe]

Fill 8-oz. highball glass with cracked ice. Add all ingredients. Stir well.

[recipe_title]Bill Bailey[/recipe_title]

A feature of the Fairmont's Bailey's Room--open round the clock.

[drinkRecipe]1-1/4 ozs. dark rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. pineapple juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. grenadine[/drinkRecipe]

Stir with ice. Strain over fresh ice in old fashioned glass.

[recipe_title]Pirate's Dream[/recipe_title]

Supposed to serve one in New Orleans. You can make it go for two or three.

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Bacardi rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Myers's rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Don Q rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Ronrico 151-proof rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. grenadine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 dashes Angostura bitters[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice 1 orange[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice 1 lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Fresh green mint[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]8--10 cherries[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon, orange slices[/drinkRecipe]

Stir all ingredients except cherries and lemon and orange slices with ice in Iquart pitcher, bruising mint well. Strain over ice in one, two or three glasses, depending on how you're handling it. Decorate each glass with cherries, lemon and orange slices.

They tell this one everywhere, but it just may have originated in New Orleans. A French tourist enters a Bourbon Street joint, raps on the bar and orders "un contradiction, zee marvelous American cocktail."

"Never heard of it," says the bartender.

"Ecoutez! You pour wheeskey to make it strong, water to make it weak, add lemon to make it sour and sugar to make it sweet. Zen you say, 'Here's to you,' and drink it yourself. Zat ees un contradiction, non?"

"Non! Zat ees un whiskey sour," says the barman. "How do you want it, straight up or on the rocks?"