The Case for Canadian Whisky

the mellow thirst quencher that's been crossing our northern border for generations definitely isn't maple syrup

Canadian Whisky, spelled without the E--like Scotch whisky--may be the most misunderstood spirit in the liquor cabinet. It is often called rye--a misnomer that the usually unimpeachable Alexis Lichine perpetuates. Conversely, it's thought to be a premium version of an American blend--equally incorrect. Federal regulations define Canadian whisky as "a distinctive product of Canada, manufactured in Canada in compliance with the laws of Canada." That is a Catch-22 legalism that, in effect, says Canadian whisky is anything the Dominion government deems it to be.

In practice, relatively little rye goes into Canadian whisky. The mash bill--trade lingo for the proportion of grains used--is heavily weighted to corn, some of which, ironically, comes from Iowa and Nebraska. To qualify as a rye whisky (concluded on page 172) Canadian Whisky (continued from page 119) in the States, the mash must contain a minimum of 51 percent rye grain. With rare exceptions, no Canadian does--and none in this market comes close. Russ McLauchlan, Seagram's director of quality control, contends that the technical difference between Canadian whisky and the American blends, particularly those made with light whiskey, is slight. But anyone who has compared them knows there are perceptible differences in taste. The Canadian producer strives for a clean, balanced product, with muted flavor and no off tastes, whereas American whiskies, particularly the straights, tend to be more robust, forthright and flavorful.

Canadians were shipping small quantities of their light whisky across the border even before the Civil War. However, it had the connotation of being an effete drink, "a duke's mixture," and was not widely esteemed. Prohibition opened the door to Canadian whisky in the United States. The legally produced distillate was far better, and safer, than our bootleg hooch made from sugar and tinted amber to resemble mature whiskey. Canada had a brief flirtation with prohibition, prior to our own noble experiment. However, when Stateside stills were shut down, the Canadians humanely resumed operations--knowing the whisky would find its way to their deprived cousins below the 49th parallel.

One canny ploy is suggested by shipping records of the time. They reveal that a freighter would clear a Canadian port with a load of whisky destined for, say, Havana--and be back at its Canadian berth the following day, taking more whisky aboard. "Somehow, steamships have never recaptured the speed they showed then," dryly observes H. Clifford Hatch, Hiram Walker-Gooderham & Worts' chairman.

For several decades after repeal, Canadian whisky in the United States meant two premium labels--Canadian Club and V.O. Despite a two-year age advantage, Schenley's O.F.C. remained in the third position. With the surge of bulk goods, whisky exported in barrels and bottled here, the picture changed gradually. V.O. and Canadian Club are still exceedingly popular--ranking fourth and fifth, respectively, among the top liquor brands. But in the past 20 years, bulks have caught on, and they now represent a clear majority of the roughly 20,000,000 cases of Canadian whisky we imbibe annually. Bulk Canadians are fairly similar in style to those bottled in Canada and have the same import cachet, but cost considerably less--about the same as American blends. Be aware, however, as they're less potent, generally 80 proof to 86.8 proof for premium brands. Windsor Canadian is the longtime leader in this division, but Canadian Mist and Black Velvet are now large-volume brands. Lord Calvert Canadian, MacNaughton, Harwood, Canadian R&R and Canadian LTD are other worthy bulk Canadians.

The latest manifestation in Canadian whisky is the ultrapremium bottling. Until now, it's been essentially one item, Crown Royal, packaged in a spiffy purple sack, befitting royalty. The brand's singular success may have inspired the recent launching of Grand Award by the people who make Canadian Club. Although Grand Award is an ultrapremium, too, it's not a replica of Crown Royal. For example, it's 90.4 proof against Crown Royal's 80 proof and it's aged 12 years--a bit more than Crown Royal. Grand Award is also two to three dollars costlier.

While the ultrapremiums are sipping whiskies, the other Canadians are amiable mixers. Try the drinks below and see if you don't agree.

[recipe_title]Queen E[/recipe_title]

This is the house special at Montreal's Queen Elizabeth Hotel.

[drinkRecipe]1-1/3 ozs. Canadian whisky[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/3 oz. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/3 oz. Galliano[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Bitter-lemon soda, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Slice orange, slice lemon, cherry[/drinkRecipe]

Shake whisky, vodka and Galliano briskly with ice. Pour unstrained into 10-oz. glass. Add soda to taste and stir. Garnish with fruit.

[recipe_title]Vancouver Express[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. Canadian whisky[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. pineapple juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon crushed pineapple[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. cherry liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 teaspoons heavy cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 cup crushed ice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Cherry, pineapple-cube garnish[/drinkRecipe]

Pour all ingredients but garnish into chilled blender container. Blend at high speed until barely smooth, about 15--20 seconds. Pour into chilled collins glass. Decorate with fruit.

[recipe_title]Saskatchewan Spike[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. Canadian whisky[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. Canadian liqueur (Ambrosia or Yukon Jack)[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Strip lemon peel[/drinkRecipe]

Pour whisky and liqueur over ice in old fashioned glass. Stir well to mix and chill. Twist lemon peel over, then add to glass and stir.

[recipe_title]Mountie[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. Canadian whisky[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon grenadine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lime wedge[/drinkRecipe]

Pour whisky and grenadine over ice cubes in old fashioned glass. Stir well to mix and chill. Squeeze in juice of lime, then drop peel into glass and stir.

[recipe_title]Margaret Spring[/recipe_title]

An engaging drink from La Popina Restaurant, in the Place Ville-Marie, Montreal. It's on the sweet side, in deference to the Canadian sweet tooth.

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Canadian whisky[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. Drambuite, Glayva or Lochan Ora[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. sweet vermouth[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 oz. orange liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all ingredients briskly with ice. Strain into chilled cocktail glass.

[recipe_title]Golden Mink[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/4 ozs. Canadian whisky[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. orange liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all ingredients briskly with ice. Strain into chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with thin slice lemon, if you like.

[recipe_title]Canadian Cup[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. Canadian whisky[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Ginger ale, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon slice[/drinkRecipe]

Pour whisky and lemon juice over ice in large goblet. Stir. Add ginger ale to taste. Garnish with lemon slice and stir once.

[recipe_title]Canadian Sour[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. Canadian whisky[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 teaspoons maple syrup[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Fruit garnish[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all ingredients but fruit briskly with ice. Strain into sour glass or over fresh ice in rocks glass. Decorate with traditional orange and cherry or just wheel of lemon.

New York's exclusive Palace Restaurant lists Grand Award at $12 a drink! No, you don't get to keep the glass--or even the doily--but you can suck on the ice when no one's looking.

"The Canadian producer strives for a clean, balanced product, with muted flavor and no off tastes."