Live Like a King

Travel, especially foreign travel, evokes images of romance and glamor. Exotic locales, unfamiliar languages and traditions that span centuries combine to promise an experience both unusual and wonderfully satisfying.

Passing through the gilded corridors of history should, after all, be what foreign travel is all about. Too often, however, the corridors through which we pass are the kind of cookie-cutter creations that make a new hotel in Paris indistinguishable from one in Pomona. But travelers who settle for those precast concrete-and-chrome surroundings have only themselves to blame, for there are still quite a number of extraordinary accommodations that make travel worth while. It's possible to spend a night or two in an elegant fortress--perhaps with shower installed in an archer's turret--or in a castle or a manor house. In the best cases, the conversion of castle or stately home to hotel use has been effected with elegance and taste. In the worst cases, drafts that were once restricted (continued on page 182)Live Like a King(continued from page 173) to the dungeons now whirl through the entire stone edifice. Even in the chilliest of these, however, all you need remember is that this is exactly what knights of old had to endure during nights of old. Perhaps this historic image (and a pair of thick socks) will keep you warm.

Much more often, the level of comfort to be enjoyed in contemporary castle hotels and the cozy inns created from venerable manor houses is considerable. There is also the opportunity to score points in ways never even imagined at a Holiday Inn. Perhaps the single most stirring coup I ever achieved was at an Irish castle. I'd visited a local stable the afternoon before, and there are no words to describe the impact on that memorable morning when the hall porter came to our breakfast table to announce, "Your horses are in the courtyard, sir."

There's something very special about bedding down in a house on a Highland heath that four centuries ago knew the tread of noblemen. Or sitting on a settee in a room decorated with magical mosaics, in which the last private resident was the local maharaja. There's a powerful urge to leap up and exclaim, "Look at me--I'm regular royalty!" If the next best thing to being born rich is to live as though you were, the pinnacle of such experience is literally to be able to live like a king.

What follows are the grandest palaces, the most imposing châteaux and the most stately homes where visitors are made to feel really regal. Because of sharply fluctuating exchange rates, it's difficult to provide price information, but it is safe to say that these spectacular stopping places cost no more than far less impressive hostelries in their respective neighborhoods. So if you're planning to visit an area near one of these regal resorts, a royal detour is very much in order.

The Lake Palace

(Udaipur, India)

The town of Udaipur was a desert village in medieval times and once was an important outpost of India's fabled Rajput warriors. What makes the area (a two-hour flight north from Bombay) worth while now is the single most extraordinary hotel site on this planet. The immense Lake Palace appears to float on the surface of Pichola Lake in a feat of aquatic levitation. However, the pure-white-marble edifice (created on the whim of an 18th Century ruler) has a foundation that has been firmly rooted since then. At that time, immense pilings were sunk in the lake at the command of the maharani of Mewar, and this is the only hotel--perhaps the only building--of its sort in the world. Regrettably, many of its 85 air-conditioned rooms and suites are undistinguished, so it's necessary to make specific room requests if you intend to immerse yourself in supreme splendor. The suites command special attention: One of those, the Kamal Mahal (Lotus Flower Room), has walls inlaid with floral designs, and most of it was part of the maharani's own apartment. The Khush Mahal (Happiness Suite) is where the reigning queen (and occasionally the favorite concubine) reclined in splendid luxury, and even now, the suite is furnished in heirlooms from a royal collection. A marble swimming pool completes the appointments, and the very best part of all these elegant surroundings is that their cost is surprisingly modest.

For information: The Lake Palace, Udaipur, India. U. S. contact: The Taj Group of Hotels, 200 Park Avenue, Suite 426 West, New York, New York 10166. Telephone 212-880-1564.

Dromoland Castle

Newmarket-on-Fergus, County Clare, Ireland)

At a time when accountants seem to be inheriting the earth and the law of diminishing taste has made banality the norm, here is a testament to the fact that style and elegance still do exist. Dromoland Castle was the former seat of the fierce O'Brien clan, and the impressive state of the current castle is a result of its having been continuously occupied for more than four centuries. Today, guests routinely accept as their due the castle's enormous oil paintings, wood paneling and intricate stone carvings, as did Donough O'Brien when the castle was presented to him as a gift in 1570. The surrounding grounds include a nine-hole golf course and trails through the woods. A call to Burke's stable in town will get you mounts delivered to the castle door; since Irish hunters are the norm hereabouts, specify a mild-mannered mare if you don't care for impromptu jumping. Then hire a gillie to keep you on the narrow paths and in the right direction, and I guarantee a sense of serene opulence that is not duplicable elsewhere. There are 67 rooms, and the public rooms are pleasant and bright. This is truly a castle adapted to contemporary life in the most salutary way. The feeling of being a modern-day baron is virtually inescapable, and nowhere in Ireland does a hotel guest feel further from the trials of the times or closer to the soft green landscape.

For information: Dromoland Castle, Newmarket-on-Fergus, County Clare, Ireland. U.S. contact: McDonough Hotels, P.O. Box 1825, Parkersburg, West Virginia 26101. Telephone 800-624-1921.

Eastwell Manor

(Ashford, Kent, England)

England boasts a huge inventory of stately homes that accept guests, but, sad to say, most of them have been "Ye Olded" to such a degree that one can get diabetes from the cloying sweetness. Not so Eastwell Manor, which is precisely the sort of building--inside and out--that travelers dream about. The stone mansion bristles with narrow turrets and chimneys; it's reached via a long tree-lined lane, which leads to a narrow aperture in the surrounding stone wall opening onto a central courtyard. Within the snug courtyard, smoke billowing from the chimneys fills the air with the scent of burning hardwood. Not a bad introduction to the British countryside.

Eastwell sits in the center of one of England's most vast park-land properties--3000 acres--which provides substantial insulation for the hotel of only 20 rooms. Five of those are merely comfortable, but the remaining 15 vary from stunning to downright spectacular. The most lush digs are in the Countess of Midleton suite, where the bathroom is only slightly smaller than Madison Square Garden. The walk-in redwood closets are tucked up behind a small set of stairs that are themselves tucked behind the bathtub. The shower water comes not only from the overhead nozzle but from jets cascading from three sides. The suite's sitting room is twice the size of the bathroom, and there are a similarly oversized bed and bedroom. The gorgeous living quarters are complemented by a genuinely first-class dining room; perhaps the only element missing from this enterprise is a brace of barons clanging in the yard.

For information: Eastwell Manor, Eastwell Park, Ashford, Kent TN25 4HR, England. U.S. contact: Scott Calder, 152 Madison Avenue, New York, New York 10016. Telephone 800-223-5581.

Inverlochy Castle

(Fort William, Scotland)

It was Queen Victoria who brought this Highland castle to prominence (continued on page 246)Live Like a King(continued from page 182) when, after a week's stay, she confided to her diary that "I never saw a lovelier or more romantic spot." The 19th Century structure, more a Scottish baronial mansion than a castle, overlooks a lovely small lake. The current hotel configuration accommodates only 18 guests, so there's more a feeling of being a friend at a country weekend than of being in residence at a commercial hotel.

There are 50 acres of wooded park grounds immediately surrounding Inverlochy, and salmon and trout fishing are excellent on both river and loch. Grouse shooting is also a popular local sport, especially on the slopes of looming Ben Nevis, which casts its shadow over the castle building. Water from the mountain's slopes is used in brewing the famous Dew of Ben Nevis Scotch whisky in the distillery nearby.

The bedrooms are mostly decorated in satin and brocade, and everywhere there's the sense of an easier, earlier age. Mary Shaw, the resident chef de cuisine, holds an M.B.E. from Her Majesty. Don't be fooled by Miss Shaw's rather dour demeanor; her food demonstrates why she's the first woman in Britain ever recognized for gastronomic services to the crown. A 5000-acre farm surrounds the formal hotel grounds, and most of the staff is recruited from a hotel school in the area. Open April to October.

For information: Inverlochy Castle, Fort William, Inverness-shire, Scotland.

Ruthin Castle

(Ruthin, Clwyd, North Wales)

This structure was begun by King Edward I in 1282, but the ramparts on which he built are even older. Over the years, reconstruction of this medieval border fortress continued, and its site on a ridge of red sandstone is now crowned by a truly regal hotel, with 30 acres of surrounding park land looking down on the Vale of Clwyd. This region of North Wales has been a particular favorite of painters over the years. The current owners take their historic status very seriously, and six nights a week guests are transported back nearly 700 years during medieval banquets at which traditional food is served and the main drink is mead.

The 30 rooms are decorated in particularly comfortable style and the broad beams that span the dining room reinforce the castle's image of strength and longevity. This clearly is no effete structure, and the impression it conveys could hardly be described as delicate. More than one guest has had the urge to wear a suit of armor rather than of blue serge to dinner, and one half-expects the waiter to emerge from the kitchen in a suit of mail and a doublet. On the frequent nights when the townsfolk dress in period costume, you may just find your wishes gratified.

For information: Ruthin Castle, Ruthin Clwyd LL15 2NA, Clwyd, North Wales. U.S. contact: Best Western International, International Department. Telephone 800-528-1234.

Kasteel Wittem

(Limburg, Holland)

First built at the end of the 12th Century by the Julement Knights, this turreted structure echoes the atmosphere of nearby Maastricht, the oldest fortified city in Holland. Captured and destroyed many times, the current building was restored early in the 17th Century, and its location near the corner where Holland, Belgium and West Germany meet puts it on a very heavily traveled route. There are only 11 rooms and one suite, so reservations are understandably difficult to obtain, especially since the hotel's restaurant merits Michelin praise.

The circular driveway is framed by lovely trees, and swans glide in the moat. Many rooms contain oaken beds; some also have small wooden window seats overlooking the garden. All the guest rooms have been renovated in recent years, to the point where they are among the most comfortable in the Low Countries. Inveterate sight-seers can wander down nearby paths once fought over by medieval armies.

If, as so often happens, Wittem's guest rooms are full, there's the almost equally imposing Kasteel Neubourg only three kilometers away. It's by far the younger of the two structures--it was built in the 14th Century.

For information: Kasteel Wittem, 3 Wiltemerallee, Wittem, Limburg, Holland. U.S. contact: Relais et Châteaux, c/o Jacques de Larsay, Inc., Suite 1823, 310 Madison Avenue, New York, New York 10017. Telephone 212-986-9431 or 800-223-1510. Kasteel Neubourg, 1 Rijksweg, Gulpen, Holland. Telephone 31.4450.1222.

Chateau D'Artigny

(Montbazon, France)

I guess the thing I like best about this opulent, ornate château is that it's a fake. Located among a dense collection of authentic French residential buildings from the 18th Century and earlier, the current structure is strictly nouveau château, dating back barely 50 years.

Once upon a time, an 11th Century fortress occupied this site above the Indre Valley. In 1764, it was replaced by a sturdy castle, but even that structure did not measure up to the pretensions of famed perfumer Francois Coty, who bought the estate in 1912. He pulled down all the old ramparts and spent 20 years creating a residence worthy of his dreams. His monument to excess was turned into a hotel in 1961, and what it lacks in historic heritage it more than makes up in touches that rival the taste of the Sun King.

But even as splendid as the main château is, I'd pass it up and reserve rooms in the adjacent Pavilion d'Ariane (sometimes called The Chapel). The most spectacular rooms here are in the top-floor apartment, where two huge stone columns intrude right into the center of both bedroom and bathroom. The route to the main chamber is up a narrow spiral staircase, and the view from the back window is of gently rustling woodland. Room service is particularly swift in this small building, and it's a special pleasure to walk across the graveled courtyard for a luxurious dinner in the restaurant that rates one Michelin star. Open mid-January to mid-November.

For information: Château d'Artigny, 37250 Veigne, Route d'Azay-le-Rideau, Montbazon, France. Telephone 49-26.24.24. U.S. contact: Relais et Châteaux (see above).

Chateau de Nieuil

(Nieuil, France)

Located in the heart of historic Aquitaine, between Limoges and Angoulême, the Château de Nieuil might well get the nod for "tops in turrets" among this stellar group. Any visitor is likely to be stunned by the dramatic appearance of the 450-year-old facade, with formal gardens adding a touch of splendor to the spectacular scene.

But the fact is that this was considered rather modest in the early 16th Century, when it was built as a hunting castle for Francis I. It has functioned as a hotel since 1937 and was one of the first of the great French châteaux to be so utilized. There's swimming and tennis in summer (the castle is closed to visitors from November to March), and this is a perfect headquarters for tours north into the Loire Valley or south to the Dordogne.

Understandably, reservations here are among the most difficult to come by in all France. There are only ten rooms and three suites, and they are generally reserved a year in advance. Still, the extraordinary level of cuisine, calm and comfort offered by Monsieur and Madame Bodinaud-Faugerat makes early booking a small price to pay for ambience once available only to the royal court of France. To heighten the regal feeling, the rooms are decorated with antique furniture, as well as some lovely paintings and first-class reproductions. Most dramatic of all, however, are the historic Aubusson tapestries displayed on the walls of the château. It's amusing that this grand building ranks in the lowest category (simplicité) among the hotels of the august Relais et Châteaux group. Makes a person wonder what its grand luxe establishments are like.

For information: Château de Nieuil, 16270 Nieuil, France. Telephone 45-71.36.38. U.S. contact: Relais et Châteaux (see above).

Hotel Chateau Gutsch

(Lucerne, Switzerland)

Built on the remains of a 13th Century fortress, this romantic Schloss overlooks the old walled city and Lake Lucerne. There's even a private cog railway (funicular) that runs up to the hotel from the street and railway station just below. As with many of the most comfortable European castle hotels, this establishment's buildings are of very diverse ages, parts dating from 1829; it has been a hotel since 1888. The entranceway immediately establishes its medieval heritage, with old iron masks, spears and stags heads; there's even a dining room in a dungeon (now mostly a wine cellar) that is normally warmed by a roaring fire. Most of the rooms are surprisingly rustic, and the hand-hewn beams in the ceilings reinforce the rural image. Try to choose a room with a canopied bed, covered in the kind of down quilts that are a Swiss specialty. Here is as romantic a place for latter-day knights and their ladies as can be found in this setting.

For information: Hotel Château Gütsch, Kanonenstrasse, CH-6000 Lucerne, Switzerland. U.S. contact: Utell International, Inc. Telephone 800-223-9868; New York State telephone 212-757-2981; or E. S. Tours Ltd., 43 Forest Avenue, Staten Island, New York, New York 10301. Telephone 212-273-8689.

Hotel Im Palais Schwarzenberg

(Vienna, Austria)

Although the Schwarzenberg Palace sits only a few blocks off the Ringstrasse in the busiest part of Vienna, it still manages to evoke a more serene setting. The splendid baroque building is set just below the Belvedere Gardens, and its own grounds combine to insulate the palace from the commercial bustle on the surrounding streets.

One wing of this national architectural treasure has been converted into a hotel, and the rooms are modern and tastefully furnished. Little of the old interior remains in this wing, since the palace was virtually rebuilt after it was gutted during World War Two. The subsequent Russian occupation did it little good, yet three of the largest palace rooms survive much as they were in the 15th Century. Designs for the Gobelin tapestries that cover the walls of one room are nearly 500 years old and are currently being rewoven according to the original sketches.

The Schwarzenberg Palace is the only member of the Relais et Châteaux group in Vienna, and that affiliation assures a sophisticated kitchen serving fine French specialties in addition to the city's normal carte of succulent schnitzels. For the full flavor of this palace, try to arrange a stay during a holiday, when the original rooms are in use. One New Year's Eve, we dined in one of those rooms, the walls of which are completely done in bas-relief, with service by footmen dressed in gray-silk knee breeches and long pink coats. With their powdered wigs, they looked supremely appropriate in this majestic setting, and only the guests in modern attire felt underdressed.

For information: Hotel Im Palais Schwarzenberg, Schwarzenbergplatz 9, A-1030 Vienna, Austria. Telephone 0222-725-125. U.S. contact: Relais et Châteaux (see above) or dial Austria, 800-221-4980; in New York State, 212-838-9677.

Castillo de Santa Catalina

(Jaen, Spain)

Somehow, castles and Spain go together naturally, and none of those on this list has a longer history than this wondrous building situated on a mountaintop. One of the Paradores Nacionales, the beige-stone hotel is part of a complex that dates back to the Moorish kings of Spain of the Tenth Century. The building is set atop the Cerro de Santa Catalina, more than 2000 feet above sea level; the air is clean and smells of the pine trees that cover the surrounding hillside. It's possible to climb the towers and explore the olive groves just below the fortress. The view is superb, and there's the all-too-rare bonus of central heating and air conditioning.

The cuisine of Jaen combines the exotic flavors of Andalucia with the more austere fare of La Mancha. so the menu is marvelously eclectic. The Parador's rooms have high vaulted ceilings and sturdy wooden beds, with animal skins covering much of the Spanish-tile floors. Studded wooden doors enhance the strength of the castle image.

For information: Castillo de Santa Catalina, Jaen, Spain. U.S. contact: Marketing Ahead, Inc., 515 Madison Avenue, New York, New York 10022. Telephone 212-759-5170.

Palacio Hotel

(Buçaco, Portugal)

This sumptuous structure is said to be the only functioning building in the world of the Manueline style. This unique architecture, which combines Portuguese, Spanish, Italian and Flemish elements, takes its name from King Manuel I, who reigned over Portugal in the late 15th and early 16th centuries.

The premises, once a royal hunting lodge, are surrounded by a cypress forest reputed to be 400 years old. The hotel's 79 rooms, best of which is probably room number one, are really something out of the ordinary, offering the best of Portugal's old-world elegance and charm. The Palace's French-influenced kitchen serves Portugal's most refined cuisine.

For information: Palacio Hotel, Mata do Buçaco, Buçaco, Portugal. Telephone 0031-93101.

Villa d'Este

(Cernobbio, Italy)

Here on the shore of Lake Como in northern Italy, the lessons of the past are imprinted everywhere, dating back as much as 500 years to the time when a Renaissance cardinal built this remarkable villa as a retreat. At one time, the buildings held a small convent, though the villa was more famous in the 16th Century as a country salon for the rich, the pious and the creative.

A nephew of the cardinal inherited the villa, then called Garrovo, upon the death of his uncle, and he embellished the already grand residence with marble statuary, friezes and inlaid woods. According to Giovanna Salvadore, who, with her husband, Luca, serves as the hotel's ambassador to the world, a sultan of Morocco went to Como in 1615 just to see this wonder.

Villa d'Este passed through many elegant families over the centuries, but it was Caroline of Brunswick, wife of the future George IV of England, who came upon the villa early in the 19th Century, purchased it and gave it its present name. In 1873, it was turned into a hotel by a group of businessmen, who added garden terraces in front; nowadays, an orchestra plays there for lakeside dancing.

Mario Arrigo, the general manager of Villa d'Este since 1950, operates the 190 rooms and 30 suites with a staff of nearly 200--including resident gardeners, masons, electricians, carpenters and painters. There are indoor and outdoor swimming pools and a sun deck, a discothèque and a dining room run with an iron spatula by chef Luciano Parolari. Lunch is served outdoors whenever possible, under a tree that local legend says was planted by the original cardinal; there are even outdoor barbecues when weather permits. Four hard tennis courts are set in the 18th Century park, but I think you'll find it more pleasant to sip champagne as the resident orchestra plays, or perhaps head for bed, to be lulled into restfulness by the music that goes on until midnight. Open April to October.

For information: Villa d'Este, Via Regina 40, 22010 Cernobbio, Italy. Telephone 081-511471. U.S. contact: HRI Leading Hotels of the World, 770 Lexington Avenue, New York, New York 10021, telephone 800-223-1230; New York State telephone 212-751-8915; or Relais et Châteaux (see above).

"A call to Burke's stable in town will get you mounts delivered to the castle door."

"One half-expects the waiter to emerge from the kitchen in a suit of mail and a doublet."