The Midnight Special

The Midnight Snack is as much a part of American folklore as Paul Bunyan, Wyatt Earp, Annie Oakley and the Battle of Bunker Hill. Yet, for some reason, this innocent indulgence has often been linked with a guilt trip. Remember the movies, TV sitcoms and comic strips in which a hulk somewhat larger than Mr. T is nabbed in the act of sneaking forbidden rations from a bulging refrigerator? Shame! Shame! We say the hell with old hang-ups and Puritanical inhibitions. Up the midnight snack! The best midnight munch is a turkey sandwich--after the Thanksgiving guests have gone and it's just the two of you again in the blessed quiet. Halve a couple of crusty rolls; slather one side with Thousand Island dressing, the other with pan juices or gravy. Now heap on the white meat, dark meat and turkey dressing--the right amount is just a little too much. If you like, add a layer of thinly sliced onion and a dish of ripe olives or gherkins.

Well, that takes care of Thanksgiving Day--but what about the 364 others? No problem--soul food of the midnight hours should be simple, something you can throw together quickly and easily. It should also be savory and substantial, to succor appetites honed by a night of frolicking or a chukker of mattress polo. Comestibles favored for after-hours chomping include eggs, cheese, tuna, smoked fish and sandwiches, all prepared with unusual style and panache. Consider the mundane egg, for example: It can be paired with smoked salmon in a luxurious eggs Romanoff or with Mexican salsa for a peppery huevos revueltos. Cheese needn't always be sandwiched or flanked with fruit. The right fromage, handled knowingly, can transform an ordinary pasta sauce into haute cuisine. Imported tuna puts the gourmet stamp on a light but satisfying salad plate. Plain old pita bread is the ideal foundation for a superpizza if you get a late-night yen, when the neighborhood pizzeria is shut. And if you're still hooked on mile-high Dagwood sandwiches, try a croque-monsieur for a sophisticated change of taste.

There are times, however, when circumstances dictate a sensuous approach to midnight nibbling. And frankly, at those moments, there's only one acceptable offering for an intimate snack à deux--a rich, luscious, drop-dead dessert. Chocolate in any form does it for a lot of people. Others respond to exquisite gelati or exotic fruit tarts. But for utter rapture, it's hard to beat a medley of outsized strawberries at their peak of perfumy ripeness, anointed with the aromatic magic of kirsch or Cointreau and smothered in crème fraîche. When you share this culinary treasure with your partner in pleasure, the results will, indeed, be magical.

Obviously, possibilities for nocturnal noshing abound--but one thing is a must. There's no (continued on page 187) Midnight Special (continued from page 114) better way to round off your midnight adventure than with a mellow, pungent, lulling nightcap to carry you off to sleep . . . and tender dreams.

[recipe_title]California Twist (Four servings)[/recipe_title]

[recipe]A simplified version of a zesty pasta dish served at Lavin's, a respected Manhattan restaurant. The recipe was adapted for home use with the help of Lavin's executive chef.[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1b. fusilli (corkscrew pasta)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup chicken stock or bouillon (canned or reconstituted is OK)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 shallots, peeled and halved[/recipe]

[recipe]2--3 ozs. goat cheese, crumbled[/recipe]

[recipe]Freshly ground pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]Chopped toasted pecans or walnuts[/recipe]

[recipe]Cook fusilli according to package directions until tender but still chewy--or to taste. Meanwhile, combine cream and stock in 2-quart saucepan. Fix shallot halves on toothpick and add to pan. Bring mixture to boil; reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Whisk cheese into sauce, stirring until completely dissolved. Remove shallots. Grind in pepper to taste. Add salt only if necessary; both stock and cheese are likely to be well salted. When pasta is done, drain well; then toss with prepared sauce. Divide into portions and garnish generously with chopped nuts.[/recipe]

Note: Because of its "American foods" policy, Lavin's uses California goat cheese, but a tangy, herbed chèvre would be equally compatible. Adding more cheese will give the sauce body and zip.

[recipe_title]Eggs Romanoff (One serving)[/recipe_title]

[recipe]Offered as a midnight snack at Trader Vic establishments. Look closely and you'll notice a startling similarity to the classic eggs Benedict.[/recipe]

[recipe]English muffin[/recipe]

[recipe]2 slices smoked salmon[/recipe]

[recipe]Pepper, optional[/recipe]

[recipe]2 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]Hollandaise sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]Romanoff salmon caviar[/recipe]

[recipe]Split and toast English muffin. Put a slice of smoked salmon on each half. Sprinkle with pepper, if desired. Poach eggs and place on muffin halves. Top with hollandaise and garnish with a dab of salmon caviar.[/recipe]

Note: Decent, prepared hollandaise sauce is available in specialty food shops and fancy supermarkets, and Knorr's drymix hollandaise is widely distributed. If you prefer homemade, the sauce below can be prepared in a jiffy.

[recipe_title]Jiffy Hollandaise[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1/4 1b. (1 stick) butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]Pepper, several grinds[/recipe]

[recipe]Heat butter in small saucepan or frying pan until bubbly; be careful not to brown. Keep warm. Rinse blender container with hot water and dry. Add remaining ingredients to blender container in order listed above. Cover container; buzz at medium speed until thoroughly mixed. Keep blender running; shift cover to make opening and pour in hot butter in slow, steady stream. Use immediately or keep warm in top of double boiler over hot water. Leftover hollandaise should be stored in refrigerator.[/recipe]

[recipe_title]Pronto Pita Pizza (Four servings)[/recipe_title]

[recipe]A version of the pizza presented at The Piteria in Manhattan's Greenwich Village.[/recipe]

[recipe]4 pitas (pocket breads)[/recipe]

[recipe]Bottled pizza sauce or marinara sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1 can (4 ozs.) sliced mushrooms, drained (or 4 large fresh mushrooms, sliced)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 1b. Monterey Jack or other semifirm cheese, shredded[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium onion, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt and pepper, if desired[/recipe]

[recipe]Gently flatten pitas; they tend to curl at edges. Spread concave side of each with thin layer of sauce. Divide sliced mushrooms among the pitas. Sprinkle a good heavy coating of shredded cheese over each. It's starting to look mighty like a pizza. Toss onion slices in oil and arrange over cheese. Place on cookie sheet and set under broiler 5 to 6 ins. from flame. Check after 2 minutes; these things burn easily. Pizza is au point when cheese is bubbly and starting to brown. You probably won't want salt, but a little pepper might be nice.[/recipe]

[recipe_title]Tonnato Toscano (Four servings)[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 can (7 ozs.) dark Italian tuna[/recipe]

[recipe]1 can (20 ozs.) cannellini beans, drained[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large ripe tomato, in wedges[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small red onion, diced[/recipe]

[recipe]6 globe radishes, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons lemon juice or wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]Freshly ground pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Romaine-lettuce leaves[/recipe]

[recipe]Anchovies, rinsed and drained[/recipe]

[recipe]Drain tuna, place in salad bowl and flake. Add beans, tomato, onion and radishes. Whisk oil and lemon juice to combine and drizzle over salad. Add pepper to taste; toss well. Spoon on lettuce leaves; garnish with anchovies.[/recipe]

[recipe_title]Croque-Monsieur (Two servings)[/recipe_title]

[recipe]Very popular in France--and gaining fans in the States.[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons sweet butter, softened[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]4 slices white bread[/recipe]

[recipe]2 slices Emmentaler or fontina cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]2 slices country ham[/recipe]

[recipe]2 slices white meat of chicken[/recipe]

[recipe]2 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons milk[/recipe]

[recipe]Pinch of salt, optional[/recipe]

[recipe]Combine butter and mustard; mix thoroughly. Spread lightly on one side of each bread slice. Make 2 sandwiches, with a slice of cheese, ham and chicken in each. Beat eggs moderately with milk, salt lightly; pour into soup plate or piepan. Dip sandwiches in egg mixture; turn them until they've absorbed it all. Heat about 2 tablespoons butter in large skillet; sauté sandwiches until both sides are golden brown and cheese has melted. Cut sandwiches into quarters. Serve with sweet pickles and potato chips.[/recipe]

[recipe_title]Huevos Revueltos (Two servings)[/recipe_title]

[recipe]A tasty late-night snack from Santiago Moneo of Casa Moneo in Manhattan. Revueltos means "soft set," which describes the consistency of the huevos perfectly.[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 ripe tomato, seeded and chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]2 canned mild green chilies, chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 small onion, chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]4 eggs, beaten moderately[/recipe]

[recipe]Heat oil in medium-size skillet. Add tomato, chilies and onion; sauté over medium heat until softened. Pour in eggs and stir slowly with fork, pausing to let eggs catch on bottom and sides. When done, eggs will be moist and creamy, not firm. May be served with hot refried beans and tortillas--both available in fancy food shops and supermarkets.[/recipe]

[recipe]Quick-Fix Huevos Revueltos: Substitute about 1/3 cup La Victoria bottled salsa, or other good prepared salsa, for the fresh ingredients. Heat in pan with oil, add beaten eggs and scramble, as above. Superb! Note that salsa comes mild or hot. Most people find the mild plenty caliente![/recipe]

[recipe_title]Lagniappe[/recipe_title]

[recipe]Hero Boy's James Del Orte suggests an Italian favorite as a sumptuous finale to a memorable after-hours munch--mascarpone cheese and ripe strawberries. Mascarpone, a luscious triple cream cheese, complements the tart-sweet berries beautifully. Jimmy likes this with an extra-dry sparkling wine or a dessert wine.[/recipe]

[recipe_title]Au Revoir[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 1/4 ozs. cognac[/recipe]

[recipe]3 ozs. milk, chilled[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 ripe banana, mashed[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon superfine sugar, or to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]Dash bitters[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup crushed ice[/recipe]

[recipe]Cinnamon[/recipe]

[recipe]Place all ingredients but cinnamon in chilled blender container. Buzz until just smooth. Pour into chilled tall glass. Taste for sweetness and correct, if necessary. Dust surface lightly with cinnamon.[/recipe]

A midnight bite doesn't have to be a Tom Jones romp. For people who are truly passionate about food, quality, not quantity, is the criterion. Bon appétit!