Best of the House

While we haven't seen any official tallies on the matter, astute trend spotters agree that the cocktail is making a comeback. The renewed interest is evident on both sides of the bar. It's a symbiotic relationship--the enthusiasm of patrons serves as inspiration for bartenders, and they, in turn, compete with one another to see who can create the best renditions of various drink types: the crispest martini, the smoothest old fashioned, the tangiest margarita. Customers play a hand in the cocktail game, too, ferreting out the best of the best in bars, restaurants and cafés. Word of these winners spreads quickly through the cocktail underground, conferring instant popularity on the place of origin. As a result of this attention, we're seeing a spate of captivating new drinks and clever variations on the golden oldies. Such potions, often designated house specials, are directed toward the educated palate. For example, Felidia Ristorante--a hot Manhattan restaurant--is renowned for its spectacular martinis. Bartender Sime Peros uses a high proportion of gin to vermouth, with a special method of mixing. He neither shakes nor stirs but swirls the liquid in a mixing glass with large ice cubes, holding his palm flat against the glass. That, he says, registers the optimal moment when the drink is properly chilled yet not diluted (continued on page 172) Best of the House (continued from page 148) by excessive mixing. He also insists on a "thin, fine, stemmed glass" and a pitted olive--no lemon, please.

There are margaritas and margaritas. Chicago's colorful Su Casa distinguishes its version by mixing with Grand Marnier instead of triple sec--for a drier, more complex drink. Manhattan's elegant new Aurora is the handiwork of Joe Baum, who also launched The Four Seasons and Windows on the World. Bartenders squeeze fresh fruit juice for every drink, a typical Baum touch. It makes a significant difference in the Ritz cocktail--Aurora's house specialty.

Recipes for the Ritz and other distinctive draughts follow.

[recipe_title]Martini Royale[/recipe_title]

From New York's fabulous Felidia Ristorante, an aristocratic martini.

[drinkRecipe]3 to 4 ozs. Beefeater gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 demitasse spoon Boissiere dry vermouth[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Pitted olive, rinsed[/drinkRecipe]

Fill mixing glass about halfway with large ice cubes. Pour in gin and just "a breath" of vermouth. With palm against side of glass, gently swirl contents just until drink is frosty cold--don't overmix. Strain into chilled 5-1/2-oz. martini glass. Plop in olive.

[recipe_title]Su Casa Golden Margarita[/recipe_title]

When it comes to margaritas, Chicago's popular Su Casa restaurant has the golden touch.

[drinkRecipe]Salt[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. tequila[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. Grand Marnier liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. mixed fresh lemon and lime juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 cup crushed ice[/drinkRecipe]

Moisten rim of saucer champagne glass; invert and swirl in salt. Tap glass to remove excess salt; reserve. Combine remaining ingredients in chilled blender container. Whirl briefly and strain into prepared glass.

[recipe_title]The Four Seasons Old Fashioned[/recipe_title]

An old-fashioned way with an old fashioned drink--The Four Seasons' muddled old fashioned.

[drinkRecipe]Dash superfine sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 dashes Angostura bitters[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon water[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 maraschino cherry[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 slice orange, with peel[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2-1/2 ozs. bourbon[/drinkRecipe]

Add sugar, bitters and water to old fashioned glass. Muddle to dissolve sugar. Add fruit and muddle vigorously--"Muddle the devil out of it," says The Four Seasons' head bartender, Jim Kelly. Place a few ice cubes in glass. Add bourbon, preferred because "it has more body." Stir well.

[recipe_title]The Burning Bush[/recipe_title]

A flaming concoction from Kitty O'Sheas, a hot new Irish tavern in the Chicago Hilton.

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. Old Bushmills Irish whiskey[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Float of sambuca[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 roasted coffee beans[/drinkRecipe]

Pour Old Bushmills into small snifter and float sambuca on top. Add coffee beans and ignite with match. Quench the flame before you drink, of course.

[recipe_title]The Stanford Court Apricot Sour[/recipe_title]

Jim Nassikas, proprietor of the fabled Stanford Court Hotel in San Francisco, labels this drink the world's greatest pick-me-up.

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. apricot-flavored brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. fresh lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 teaspoon superfine sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. Hennessy cognac[/drinkRecipe]

Shake first 3 ingredients briskly with ice. Really rock the shaker. Strain over fresh ice in old fashioned glass. Float cognac on top and serve immediately.

[recipe_title]Market Sour[/recipe_title]

Sours can be listless drinks, but the one served at the World Trade Center's Market Bar has real snap. Wild Turkey bourbon, 101 proof, gives the drink richer aroma and flavor.Honey, used instead of sugar, smooths out the potent spirit.

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. Wild Turkey 101-proof bourbon (or Old Grand-Dad 100-proof bonded)[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 teaspoons honey[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. fresh lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 cups ice cubes[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Orange slice, 1/4 in. thick, for garnish[/drinkRecipe]

Stir bourbon, honey and lemon juice in cocktail shaker until honey is completely dissolved. Add ice cubes and shake vigorously. Pour, unstrained, into 14-oz. old fashioned glass. Garnish with orange slice.

[recipe_title]Ritz Cocktail[/recipe_title]

Aurora's sparkling Ritz cocktail, as prepared by head bartender Dale DeGroff.

[drinkRecipe]Juice of 1/2 lemon, freshly squeezed[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. Cointreau[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. cognac[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Orange-peel segment, 1-1/2 ins. x 3/4 in.[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Champagne, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Pour lemon juice, Cointreau and cognac over ice cubes in chilled mixing pitcher. (DeGroff specifies large square cubes, because there's less dilution.) Stir very well. Strain into large chilled cocktail glass. Hold orange peel between thumb and forefinger of one hand; hold lighted match in other hand and bring close to orange peel. Snap peel sharply to expel oils, which will flare and spark. Now drop peel into glass. Top with generous splash of champagne.

[recipe_title]The Beverly Wilshire Banango[/recipe_title]

The Beverly Wilshire hotel, a Beverly Hills landmark, is famous for its lively drinks and lovely movie stars. Here's an exotic B.W. potion that regulars sip while surveying the room's natural beauties.

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. light rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 ozs. mango juice, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. crème de banane[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Slice papaya and mint sprig, for garnish[/drinkRecipe]

Fill 12-oz. hurricane glass or large wineglass with ice cubes. Pour in rum. Add mango juice to within about 1/2 in. of rim. Stir well. Float crème de banane on top. Decorate with papaya and mint.

[recipe_title]Trader Vic's La Florida Daiquiri[/recipe_title]

According to the late Vic Bergeron, a.k.a. the Trader, the secret of this daiquiri is squeezing the lime by hand--not with a squeezer. That way, he said, you get the aromatic oils of the peel into the drink.

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. white Puerto Rican rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon superfine sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon maraschino liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice of 1 small lime, hand squeezed[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 cup chopped ice[/drinkRecipe]

Place all ingredients in chilled blender container. Buzz until almost smooth. Pour into chilled saucer champagne glass or wineglass. Serve with short straws.

[recipe_title]Ritz Fizz[/recipe_title]

The Bar at the Boston Ritz-Carlton has been a hangout for Boston Brahmins and Harvard collegians since it opened in 1933. The Ritz Fizz, a kind of champagne cocktail, is a current favorite.

[drinkRecipe]Champagne, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 dash amaretto[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 dash blue curaçao[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 dash lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Rose petal, optional, for garnish[/drinkRecipe]

Fill flute champagne glass about 2/3 full with champagne. Add amaretto, curaçao and lemon juice. Stir gently to mix. Add more champagne, to fill. Stir once. Garnish if desired.

[recipe_title]Hard Rock Special[/recipe_title]

From the Hard Rock Café just off London's Piccadilly, called by some the cradle of England's cocktail boom.

[drinkRecipe]1 part vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 part gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 part white rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 part triple sec[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 parts lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 part sugar syrup (or 1 tablespoon superfine sugar)[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Cola[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all ingredients but cola, briskly, without ice. Pour over ice cubes in tall glass. Top off with splash of cola. Stir once.

[recipe_title]Le Ruth's Barracuda[/recipe_title]

A lively pre-prandial sip from the respected LeRuth's, Gretna, Louisiana. Originated by the restaurant's chef and co-owner, Lee LeRuth.

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. Galliano[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Southern Comfort[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. pineapple juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 oz. lime juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon superfine sugar, optional Champagne, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Slice lime and cherry, for garnish

Add first 5 ingredients to shaker with ice and agitate vigorously. Strain over fresh ice in goblet. Add a good belt of champagne--about 3 ozs. or to taste. Decorate with fruit.

Cocktails afford innovative bartenders--amateur and professional--opportunities to create interesting tipples. Hey--let's all drink to that!