Editor’s Note: This story from author Matthew Zuras originally appeared on Playboy.com in 2019.
If you’re searching for a liquor to challenge both your palate and your home mixology skills, look no further than Mekhong, the so-called spirit of Thailand. Considering its dirt-cheapness and popularity among tourists in Thailand, you may have tried this sugarcane-and-rice-derived stuff en route to a full-moon party in Pattaya, and no one would blame you for not remembering its idiosyncratic flavor.
But in recent years it has ventured abroad, becoming a powerful tool in the arsenals of inventive U.S. bartenders. With a gingery-sweet kick that doesn’t quite mask its chemical undertones, Mekhong is best avoided neat. “This is not a sipping whiskey,” says Andy Ricker, chef and owner of Portland’s lauded Pok Pok. Ricker first encountered the spirit at a Koh Phangan disco in 1987, and today he uses it in his restaurant’s popular Khing & I cocktail (see his recipe below).
After debuting in 1941 via a government-owned distillery, Mekhong quickly became the top tipple for Thais, only to be dethroned decades later with the emergence of the higher-proof but equally affordable SangSom.
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“Generally speaking, the Thai whiskeys can be described as vaguely medicinal,” Ricker says of both spirits. “That diesel-y flavor you get from distilled rice spirits is in there, and that sweet flavor from the cane and lots of residual sugar and caramel coloring too.”
In fact, Mekhong is not a whiskey at all, though it’s often referred to as such. It’s closer to a spiced rum, but it’s not exactly that either. Mekhong is its own thing, and like a wedge of Stilton or a farmhouse cider, it has an assertive character that may take some getting used to. Fortunately, you’re free to experiment without blacking out: Despite Mekhong’s bold taste, its alcohol by volume measure is a relatively low 35 percent.
Ricker suggests following the Thai example and diluting Mekhong with water, seltzer or cola and enjoying over a long meal. Creative drinkers might substitute Mekhong into any cocktail that calls for spiced rum, such as a dark and stormy or a mai tai—or should we say a mai Thai?
KHING & I
Pair this piquant cocktail with your favorite Thai dish
– 3–4 thin slices of ginger, skin removed
– 1.5 oz. Mekhong
– 1.5 oz. fresh lime juice
– 1 oz. ginger simple syrup
– Key lime wedge for garnish
Prepare
Muddle ginger slices in cocktail shaker. Add Mekhong, lime juice, syrup and ice. Shake and pour into rocks glass. Garnish with lime wedge.
GLOBAL TOASTING
Go global with this trio of brawny spirits representing three continents
– Palinka: A powerful brandy, palinka is beloved in Hungary, where locals make this legal moonshine from various fruits. Drink it straight or with soda, or try it in a pisco sour.
– Aguardiente: Colombia’s version of “fire water” is strong on anise but light on alcohol, peaking around 29 percent ABV. Often consumed neat, aguardiente makes a respectable ersatz pastis in cocktails.
– Boukha: Depending on the brand, Tunisia’s fig brandy can taste like either gasoline or an autumn orchard. Try Boukha Bokobsa, a lovely eau-de-vie that dates back to the 1880s and plays well in fruit-forward drinks.